Quiet C standard tuning is a guitar tuning in which all of the strings are tuned to C’s with an ecoustics capo on the 5th fret. All six strings will be C’s that can actually sound “in tune” if your guitar is properly intonated for that note and you don’t accidentally play off a fretted string when playing chords (which, admittedly, does happen from time to time). Standard electronics tuners cannot perfectly track the pitches of multiple open strings (they will have some amount of error), so guitars are sometimes sold with tuners built into them.
I recommend Strings by Mail, as their setup service is quick and cheap. Basically, you can combine the string sets from any of their three sizes to get a guitar just right for your needs – it doesn’t cost extra!
They’ve got darn near every possible combination listed under “C Standard” in their article on String Sets for Electric Guitars. So order one up matching your desired scale length and grab about 2-3 sets of saddles depending on how many strings you want to rebend (six would be nice). You’ll need a set of tuning pegs too but they have those too!
Have at it!
1. The first peg from the headstock goes towards the C string and is tuned to a 6th fret on that frame, tap this with your fingernail to make sure it’s in tune.
2. Right next to this pulley, also on the same row of pegs but closer to the neck, go towards the G-string and should be tuned on a 5th fret; then repeat these steps for D, F and A strings respectively with tuning chords being 2nd fret for B, 4th for E and 3rd for A g string; 11th fret 15mm from end of neck) 18mm from end of neck) 19th fret (from top).
3. Finish up by tuning the 5th string to a 7th fret on the G-string.
Done! You have successfully tuned your guitar from standard tuning to C standard tuning.
There are two ways to tune a guitar to C standard tuning. The first way is to carefully tune each string until it is either in perfect C STANDARD tuning or within one semi-tone of being in perfect C STANDARD tuning. Once each of the strings have been tuned, the neck should be tightened and released so that the remaining (broken) strings will intonate correctly. The second way is more economical but requires an additional instrument which is a tuner with a needle on it called a strobe tuner. However, higher pitch instruments such as violins might not work well with this method because they might need to drop their pitch by 1/2 step for accuracy when using the strobe tuner’s needle. The second way requires the guitar to be tuned to standard concert tuning or if not, then drop the pitch one semi-tone until all of the strings are in standard concert tuning. Standard concert tuning is A 440 Hz. Therefore, if the guitar is tuned to standard concert tuning, then each string will be in perfect concert tuning. However, if the guitar is tuned one semi-tone lower than standard concert tuning (E flat), then each string needs to be tuned to standard concert tuning (A 440 Hz). Once all of the strings are in standard concert tuning, then each string should be carefully checked for intonation and then re-tuned until it is in perfect C STANDARD tuning.
Tune a guitar to C standard tuning means tune the low E string to C, the A string to G, the D string to D and so on.
The strings of a guitar are numbered one through six. The lower pitched strings are on your left when you’re standing in front of the instrument looking at it from its head side. The higher pitched strings are on your right. If you want try tuning up each string by ear then all you have to remember is that first play an open low E (the closest metal fret wire), then sixth fret high e (. Strum and listen for which octaves sound best with an open high e). Then keep repeating until all six strings sound in tune up and down their respective frets. Then do the same thing with the A string, then D string, G string and B string.
Of course this is not an easy task for anyone who want to tune their guitar. You can use a tuner to help you with this process. Now there are many different types of tuners in the market. You can find some that you can plug it to your guitar, like Boss TU-12H Chromatic Tuner.
- Tune 6th string E to C 4th string by holding the open strings and pushing one closer until they sound like octaves.
- Tune 5th string A to E using same method as step 1 (this is an octave higher than open 3rd string).
- Continue tuning remainder of strings, checking for octaves with each note – if there’s no other note that is a perfect octave above another then two or three frets below it will be fine.
- Seperate tuning pegs on headstock ensuring they are at least 1/4″ apart for easier access to tie guitar lace knot in next step without damaging tuning peg mechanisms
- Connect guitar lace from fretboard to first tuning peg on headstock ensuring tension of lace is as low as possible for a stable fit – tie knot so lace passes directly through each headstock tuning peg, tightening guitar lace around each headstock button in a slanted motion so they fit within 1/4″ of adjacent button.
- Ensure guitar lace is tightened fully before cutting extra length of lace free close to knot to prevent snagging when tuning.
- Tune guitar, checking tuning of 6th string first.
- Play one octave higher than open 6th string on 5th string (open A) to check tuning of 5th string.
- Continue checking octaves until each string is tuned to C standard tuning.
- Adjust guitar lace tightness as necessary, the slanted pressure applied to buttons by guitar lace should not shift headstock tuning pegs.
- Check tuning of guitar 1 to 2 hours later and adjust as necessary before playing guitar.
Change the guitar’s tuning before playing it to make sure all the strings are in tune with each other.
It’s important that the strings are tuned properly, since out of tune guitars will often sound terrible and may go dead when played for a long time. If an instrument is inexpertly tuned, it might even be hazardous to one’s instrument because sharp-edged open strings can scrape against your maple or rosewood fingerboard (and collect in there), causing problems with intonation on some notes. In addition, there is always a risk of scratching fine lacquer finishes when guitars aren’t stored correctly. Violinists should look into violin stabilizers to avoid this problem as well if they don’t plan on resting their instrument on its endpin.
Some may argue that it’s better to leave the strings at pitch (i.e., not tuned down) and simply use a capo to get into standard tuning. While this is an option, we feel that it’s important to be able to properly tune your guitar(s). If you are the kind of player who changes tunings regularly, invest in a good chromatic tuner which can be used for other instruments in your collection as well. A solid tuner will help you get more of a feel for the notes being played and can be used to reference other instruments as well.
Here’s a fast and easy way to tune your guitar by using open strings. Tune the G string at 147 Hz, then tune the B string at 147 Hz, then E string at 196 Hz, A string at 246hz, D String at 329Hz.
Given the tuning is “C standard” (this includes what most musicians call Standard Tuning), every major third on the guitar matrix must be tuned down one half-step.
A step is defined as moving a string from whichever fret, without pressing down another string on that same fret; for example, starting with an open A note and stepping to B♭ at the second fret on string 1 going to C ♯ at the 3rd fret of string 2.
The notes you need are D♯ (2nd) E♭ (5th) G♯ (7th) A♮ (8th)—and when playing those notes in descending order from lowest to highest—the order will sound like this: A♮ E♭ G♯ D♯.
So if you have a guitar with 24 frets, the last 2 notes are the same note, so you’ll need to get a capo for your guitar. This means that if this is your first time tuning your guitar, then get a capo. (Capos are cheap and it’s not worth the headache).
These two notes at frets 22 and 24 with the capo are:
A♮ E♭ G♯ D♯ A#
This is the correct order for tuning a guitar to C tuning:
- Adjust the 6th string (high E) to pitch
- Adjust the 5th string (A) to pitch
- Adjust the 4th string (D) until it’s barely within a semitone of being higher than the 3rd and 2nd strings
- Tune 3rd and 2nd strings so that they’re both flat on an A note but just not touching it, then tune up or down from there if you need more accuracy; what we’re aiming for is close enough because when you’re playing chords, some of them will play in different keys based on your fretting hand position and finger strength; most are not directly on the A note.
- Adjust the 2nd string (B) to match up with the 1st string (E)
- Adjust the 1st string (E) to match up with the 6th string (high E); this is likely going to result in the 1st string being sharp, but don’t worry; this is very close to what you’re aiming for
- The 3rd string (G) is pushed down a half step from the 4th string, which means you need to pull it back up a half step to the 3rd string
- The thick bass E string can be tuned as per usual, with a tuner or by ear if you have good pitch
- Finally, tune the 2nd and 1st strings so that they match up with each other but not touching either string; this is very close to what you’re aiming for
- Tune the G string to match up with the thick bass E string and you’re done!
This is a simplified version of the process. If you want to get more accurate, use a chromatic tuner.